The so-called epicentre of the coral triangle does not disappoint even the most jaded of divers. The water was unseasonably warm and perhaps slightly lower visibility than previous visits due to the earlier rains, but the fish life is still varied and prolific being a protected marine park.

We had 10 days of diving the Dampier Strait iconic sites. While there were no mantas spotted this trip, most impressive were the schools of Barracuda on most dives, jacks and sweet lips on others especially the Arborek Jetty dive.

Coming from Australia, I was excited to see so many barramundi cod but less enthusiastic than the guides to see wobbegong sharks which are common on our east coast. I particularly enjoyed a bi-plane dive which was richly encrusted with corals and home to tiny anthias decorating the wreck in bright colors.

Our last dive this trip was a gin clear dive on Sardine’s reef, where just hanging in one spot you could see entire layers of the marine food chain in action. It is only in such clear conditions you can truly see the magnificence and scope of the corals and fishes Raja Ampat has to offer.

The Murex Passport to Paradise with it’s 3 resort locations, allows guests to experience the entire North Sulawesi dive areas of of Manado, Bunaken, Bangka and Lembeh without missing a dive day or needing to pack up your dive gear or disassemble your camera. Your seamless transfers include dives along the way to your next resort.

I began at Murex Manado where after a delayed flight, and patient transfer driver (even stopped for me at an ATM and SIM card provider), arrived to a light midnight supper before retiring to my large air-conditioned garden facing room, noted for plenty of outlets to recharge my devices. The next morning I was greeted by a lush garden with its own river and water features and met the owners Danny and Angelique. Breakfast was a huge buffet of fresh fruits, juices, cereals and pastries, with eggs cooked to order. The team were well organised and incredibly friendly, all coming to see me and the other guests off for our 2 dives and transfer to Murex Bangka.

The boat transfer from Manado to Bangka takes about the same time as an airport transfer by road and then boat, but during the 2 hour boat transfer, you can enjoy a couple of dives. We had one dive on the mainland over sloping sand looking for critters and then the wind came up and were diverted to the protected side of Bangka for my favourite dive of the trip, Busabara 1. I discovered that Bangka diving includes both beautiful coral reefs and critters.

Arriving at Murex Bangka we were greeted by Danny and dive manager Ross. While given a short tour, my luggage, dive and camera gear were delivered to their respective destinations, including a new, well appointed camera room and dive centre. After a quick freshen up, a buffet lunch of Indonesian fare was served on the beach, under shady trees. My dive buddy arrived later in the afternoon and we enjoyed a fun briefing with Elina over Margaritas.

The accommodations are a choice of standard beachfront bungalows or newer hillside deluxe oceanview bungalows. New beachfront bungalows are being added early 2024. The deluxe bungalows are large and well laid out for sharing. The beds are surrounded by mosquito net curtains, and had a huge desk and work area with plenty of outlets and a fresh water dispenser. The shower room was partly outdoors, with an adjoining indoor wardrobe and vanity area. There was a safe, night lantern and umbrellas available. The rooms did not have a fridge or tea and coffee making.

The next days were a routine of a buffet breakfast, eggs cooked to order; 2 morning dives, back for lunch on the beach, afternoon and night dives offered and then dinner on the beach, unless bad weather relocates dinner indoors. Wifi is currently only available in the dining room, so the bar is kept busy with pre-dinner drinks.

The diving is well-organised with a guide ratio of 1:4 divers and 70 minute dives are allowed NDL and air permitting. The boats are comfortable, with shelter, dry areas and marine toilets on board. Snacks, hot drinks and towels are offered after dives. Dives were planned to go to different sites each day and I only repeated one dive site, which happened to be my favourite. There is a good house reef for afternoon or night dives weather permitting, reported by others to have pygmy seahorses, so you may want to use a guide!

Seaventures Rig is a one-of-a-kind dive resort situated on a converted oil rig. Upon arrival, diving equipment and people were lifted to the main deck using an open elevator. We were well-received with a cold drink and a thorough briefing. The main deck housed the dive center, restaurant, bar, and offices, providing refreshing breezes and panoramic views of Mabul and stunning sunsets.

The modest accommodations were located on the three floors above the main deck, while the deluxe rooms required climbing a rabbit warren of stairs to the fourth floor. The air conditioning and wifi worked perfectly, the beds were comfortable, and the private bathrooms were "wet" rooms where the shower drained across the floor.

A notable convenience was the camera room on the main deck, eliminating the need to carry cameras to the top floor. This room was continuously monitored by CCTV and remained unlocked.

The meals were served buffet-style and offered a delicious variety of hearty and healthy options. On one memorable night, a special BBQ with fresh fish was organized as a farewell for a group, accompanied by live music. There was always someone attending the bar, ready to answer any questions and keep the keys safe.

One of the highlights of the resort was the house reef, where the checkout dives took place and where divers can freely explore at their own pace. Navigating the reef was easy with numbered support columns and excellent visibility. The marine life was interesting, featuring juvenile species, macro life, and unfortunately, some newly discarded waste that had not yet become part of the habitat.

The setting for the Sipadan Water Village or SWV as they are known, is all over-water. The nicely appointed bungalows, reception, dive center and restaurant are connected by a series of boardwalks and all enjoy a refreshing ambiance and cooling breeze. The most outstanding quality we encountered was the professional and friendly hospitality of their well-trained staff who are very attuned to the needs of the guests, from the transport, concierge, reception, restaurant and dive centre.

Our over-water bungalow was large, with a huge sea-facing deck, and offered AC, which we did not need. The only downside was the long walk to the dive center, especially when carrying a big camera. Wifi was only available at Reception, which was the center node also housing the bar and jars of fresh baked cookies. The restaurant was nearby and we had a water-side table for most meals. Meals were served buffet style, with eggs cooked to order at breakfast. Plenty of fresh fruit and salads and multiple tasty protein choices including vegetarian, shellfish and crab.

On arrival at the resort, Manny from the dive team provided an orientation and offered a check out dive on their house reef. We were tired from diving Sipadan that morning, so unfortunately missed that dive. But we were given a thorough tour and explanation of dive and gear organisation for our dives the next day. The dive center has a coffee and snack station, also providing water fillls and fresh towels for the boat each day. We set up our gear ready for the early start to Sipadan.

Our dive guide the next morning was Manny again, and with only 4 divers and a guide it was a fast and comfortable trip to Sipadan and nice to dive with such a small group and competent guide. The surface interval between dives was spent at the island where sheltered picnic tables, and shower and restrooms facilities are available. Depending on the dive schedule, we either had breakfast or lunch provided by the resort on the island. We were lucky to have 3 dives at Sipadan that day because our fellow divers had booked prior to the change to the current maximum of 2 dives per day, so it was a long day before returning to the resort, having seen the resident schools of jacks and bump headed parrot fish, and plenty of turtles. The barracuda were elusive, seeming to avoid the crowds, as there are 257 permits for divers every day.

The next day we did local dives around Mabul and Kapalai, with the Kapalai house reef being a trip favourite. We had a different guide who was a great spotter of frog fish and nudis.

We left SWV very satisfied with the whole experience and would not hesitate to recommend it for your stay in Mabul.