Indonesia Trip Of A Lifetime
We embarked on an unforgettable journey aboard the Waow in Indonesia, recounting our smooth travel experience from LAX to Denpasar, Bali. Our flights with China Eastern were comfortable, despite a minor glitch during online check-in. Upon arrival, we were awestruck by the Waow, a handcrafted ship steeped in Indonesia's pirate history. The liveaboard exceeded our expectations with spacious accommodations and exceptional diving opportunities, showcasing diverse marine life across Alor and Lembata. We relished encounters with rare species and enjoyed luxurious amenities, making it a trip of a lifetime for diving enthusiasts.
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In short, my trip aboard the Waow in Indonesia was the trip of a lifetime!
LAX on a Tuesday evening was a breeze. I was dropped off at 11:00 PM at the Tom Bradley International terminal. I booked my flight on China Eastern through Bluewater Flight Consolidator. There was an error during online check-in, but at the ticketing counter, everything went smoothly. I got the requested window seat and a vegetarian meal.
After a smooth layover in Shanghai, I flew to Denpasar, Bali, arriving at 1 AM. From there, I walked to the domestic terminal, where I spent the night waiting for my morning flight to Maumere. Despite initial concerns about overweight baggage, I paid just 20 USD. Upon arrival, the Waow crew greeted us warmly and arranged transportation to the ship.


Immediately, I recognized the Waowit was the only ship that made me say, Wow! It was handcrafted from ironwood by a local village known for their shipbuilding. The ship took over four years to build without formal plans, making it even more impressive.

Upon boarding, we were welcomed with cool towels and refreshments. The cruise directors guided us to our rooms and gave us a briefing on the deck. I was fortunate to be upgraded to a Deluxe cabin, which had a semi-private lounge that became my favorite spot for sunrise tea with my friend Petra.


Dive 1: East Flores
Site Name: Serbete East
Visibility: 15 Meters
Current: Mild
We anchored at Point Serbete, where we encountered black and white-tip reef sharks, dogtooth tunas, great barracudas, and various other fish species. The dive site was a fantastic start to our adventure.

The diving experience was exceptional, featuring a mix of wide-angle and macro photography opportunities. Alor offers a diverse range of dive sites, from coral reefs to muck diving, making it a must-visit destination for enthusiasts.
For photography, I used my Kraken Sports Smart Phone Housinga great alternative to bulky professional gear. It allowed me to capture some amazing underwater moments without the hassle of carrying heavy equipment.
NUDIBRANCH & SLUGS: Chamberlain nembrotha
MOLLUSK: Day octopus
REPTILE: Turtle

Dive 6: South West Lembata
Site Name: Suanggi Batu Mandi
Visibility: 10M
Current: Mild
FISH: Black and white tip reef sharks, Baby white tip reef sharks, Black snappers, Fusiliers, Scorpion fish, Banner fish, Surgeon fish, Damsel fish, Blennies, Spotted soup fish.
CRUSTACEAN: Banded shrimps, Lobsters
NUDIBRANCH & SLUGS: T-bar nudibranch
Dive 7: West Lembata
Site Name: Ice Factory (ND)
Visibility: 15M
Current: Mild
FISH: Ornate ghost pipe fish, Robust ghost pipe fish, Scorpion fish, Frogfish, Lion fish, Long horn cow fish, File fish, Dragonet, Napoleon snake eel, Sole fish.
CRUSTACEAN: Hermit crabs, Orangutan crab, Spider crab
MOLLUSK: Long arm octopus, Cuttlefish
REPTILE: Banded sea snake

Dive 8: North Lembata
Site Name: Simurerang The Edge
Visibility: 20M
Current: Mild
FISH: Mobula ray, Black and white tip reef sharks, Napoleon wrasses, Moray eel, Lion fish, Black snappers, Ribbon sweetlips, Blue fin fusiliers.

Dive 9: North Lembata
Site Name: Bacatan Ridge
Visibility: 20M
Current: Mild
FISH: White tip reef sharks, Damsel fish, Fusiliers, Surgeon fish, Banner fish, Redtooth trigger fish, Angel fish, Ribbon sweetlips.
CRUSTACEAN: Zanzibar whip coral shrimp
MOLLUSK: Cuttlefish

Dive 12: Pura Island
Site Name: Board Room
Visibility: 20M
Current: Mild
FISH: Eagle ray, White tip reef sharks, Damsel fish, Fusiliers, Surgeon fish, Banner fish, Red tooth trigger fish, Angel fish, Ribbon sweetlips, Anthias, Lion fish, Blue ribbon eel, Moray eel, Long fin batfish.
CRUSTACEAN: Porcelain crab
REPTILE: Banded sea snake

Dive 13: East Pura
Site Name: Great Wall of Pantar
Visibility: 20M
Current: Strong
FISH: Napoleon wrasses, Bumphead parrot fish, Damsel fish, Fusiliers, Surgeon fish, Banner fish, Red tooth trigger fish, Angel fish, Ribbon sweetlips, Anthias, Lion fish, Blue ribbon eel, Moray eel, Long fin batfish, Black snappers.
REPTILE: Banded sea snake
Between dives, Lorine and I went for an ocean clean-up paddle board ride. Muck dives are great, but they often come with lots of garbage. We paddled for about 15 minutes and managed to collect a full bag of trash.


Visibility: 15M
Current: Mild
FISH: Rhinopias, Sweetlip, Lion fish, Scorpion fish.
CRUSTACEAN: Hermit crabs, Sponge crab, Decorated crab, Spider crab, Banded shrimp.
MOLLUSK: Cuttlefish
NUDIBRANCH & SLUGS: Girdled glossodoris, Forskals pneurobranch, Nembrotha, Flatworm.
Dive 16: Pura
Site Name: Clown Valley
Visibility: 20M
Current: Slight
FISH: Yellow tail barracudas, Sweetlips, Snappers, Damsel fish, Anthias, Bonito, Clown fish, Surgeon fish
NUDIBRANCH & SLUGS: Sea apple
Dive 17: Pura
Site Name: Point & Shoot
Visibility: 25M
Current: Mild
FISH: Bluefin trevally, Humpback snappers, Five line snappers, Red fin bream, Long face emperor, Damsel fish, Blue stripe fusiliers, Gold band fusiliers, Surgeon fish, Banner fish, Red tooth trigger fish, Angelfish, Ribbon sweetlips, Anthias, Lion fish, Black snappers, Red tooth trigger fish.

Dive 18: Reta
Site Name: Babylon
Visibility: 15M
Current: Mild
FISH: Map puffer fish, Long face emperor, Damsel fish, Fusiliers, Surgeon fish, Banner fish, Red tooth trigger fish, Angel fish, Ribbon sweetlips, Anthias, Lion fish, Black snappers, Red tooth trigger fish, Blennies.
CRUSTACEAN: Candy crab

Dive 19: Alor
Site Name: Mucky Mosque (ND)
Visibility: 15M
Current: Mild
FISH: Rhinopias, Sweetlip, Lion fish, Scorpion fish.
CRUSTACEAN: Zebra crab, Banded shrimp, Spider crab, Sponge crab, Porcelain crab.
NUDIBRANCH & SLUGS: Spanish dancer, Flat worm discodoris.

Headhunters Village Visit: At dinner the night before, the guests and I were offered the option to visit the last remaining head hunters' village. Dont worry, they no longer practice headhunting, but they remain a tribe.
We began our day by taxiing on the chase boat to the dock, where locals sold dried fish. Our bus arrived late, and we waited under a cashew tree for shade. I didnt know cashews grew on trees like that. Some kids came to take photosof themselves, not us. They love to see their pictures afterward.
The tour bus was like an old school bus. Our first stop gave us a taste of Alors culture, with moments of truth but a bit stagedsimilar to a Native American exhibit at Knott's Berry Farm. A woman was weaving scarves, a young girl made natural dyes, and another woman pounded corn over a fire pit. We tried the cornit tasted like popcorn but flat.
A man played a one-string guitar. The experience felt staged, but it was enjoyable.

We explored a local market, guided by Gagap, my self-appointed bodyguard. He showed me local treats, including crispy wafers drizzled in honey.
As we drove toward the headhunters' village, I noticed the ocean was first on my right, then on my left, though we hadnt turned. It was confusing.
At the village, warriors in traditional clothing welcomed us with a performance. We saw authentic structures and gathered around a tree for a ceremonial dance.

Reto, our cruise director, explained the ceremony. It was an offering ceremony to propose marriage, where Moko drumsvaluable status symbolsare offered as a dowry. The village values girls over boys, as boys often require families to give away Moko drums for dowries.
As the ceremony continued, we were invited to participate. I joined the circle and was taught the step dance. When it was over, we were invited to explore the village a bit. I noticed, not only in this village but all over the country, men and women with bright red mouths. Being the curious person I am, I finally asked an older woman, who took a small kit out of her woven bag. It is called Betel nut. It gives people a buzz equivalent to six cups of coffee and serves as a symbol of love, marriage, and a cure for indigestion and impotence. But it stains the heck out of your teeth! Naturally, I tried some.
Dive 20: South West Alor
Site Name: Lighthouse
Visibility: 15M
Current: Mild
Fish: Black Snappers, Sweetlips, Blennies, Anthias, Scorpion Fish, Moray Eel
Crustacean: Banded Shrimp
Nudibranch & Slugs: Pacific Thecacera, Gloomy Tambja

On the 19th, I continued my SCUBA education and began my Nitrox certification. With the help of our cruise director, Lorine, I completed my training and am now diving with Nitrox.
Dive 21: South East Pantar
Site Name: Bean Abang
Visibility: 15M
Current: Mild
Fish: Napoleon Snake Eel, Crocodile Snake Eel, Large Spotted Snake Eel, Black Saddle Snake Eel, Flounders, Blue Spotted Stingray
Mollusk: Long Arm Octopus, Wunderpus Octopus
Crustacean: Banded Shrimp


Dive 22: South East Pantar
Site Name: Bean Abang
Visibility: 15M
Current: Mild
Fish: File Fish (Juvenile), Baby Bamboo Shark, Long Fin Lion Fish, Dragon Sea Mouth, Napoleon Snake Eel, Crocodile Snake Eel, Large Spotted Snake Eel, Black Saddle Snake Eel, Flounders, Blue Spotted Stingray
Mollusk: Long Arm Octopus
Crustacean: Banded Shrimp, Soft Coral Shrimp

Dive 23: South East Pantar
Site Name: Beang Abang / Hot Property
Visibility: 15M
Current: Mild
Fish: Frog Fish, Rock Mover Wrasses, Great Barracudas, Sailfin Snappers, Flounders, Blue Spotted Stingray
Mollusk: Long Arm Octopus, Wunderpus Octopus
Crustacean: Banded Shrimp, Hermit Crab, Zanzibar Whip Coral Shrimp, Porcelain Crab

Dive 24: South East Pantar
Site Name: Beang Abang (ND)
Visibility: 15M
Current: Mild
Fish: Box Fish (Juvenile), Baby Bamboo Shark, Wash Fish, Crocodile Snake Eel, Napoleon Snake Eel, Scorpion Fish, Flounders, Blue Spotted Stingray
Mollusk: Long Arm Octopus, Squid
Crustacean: Hairy Shrimp, Banded Shrimp, Hermit Crab, Zanzibar Whip Coral Shrimp, Porcelain Crab
Nudibranch & Slugs: Blue Dragon, Forskal Pneuribranch, Flatworms Discodoris, Phylodesmium

Village Visit: Beang Abang, Alor
This village was different from the others. Adults were nowhere to be found, but children were abundant. They greeted us with songs, one of which they wrote themselves. We walked through the town together, and the children brought us to the town's water well. The most stunning surprise was the volcanic activity beneath the surface. We could see sulfuric erosion in parts of the village. Where the land met the sea, we could feel the heat from the flowing lava below, with steam rising as cold waves crashed against the sand. It was bizarre, to say the least.
Gear rinse tanks on board:
Amenities:
Meals:
Non-Diver Activities:
Special Thanks: Lory, Petra, Nick, Reefy, and Gagap.
Bluewater Travel can book your trip to Alor at the same or lower cost than booking directly. We know the diving, liveaboards, and best times to visit better than anyone!
By Tristyn Heldt

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