2017 WAOW Alor Trip Recap

Indonesia Trip Of A Lifetime

In short, my trip aboard the Waow in Indonesia was the trip of a lifetime!

Getting There

LAX on a Tuesday evening was a breeze. I was dropped off at 11:00 PM at the Tom Bradley International terminal. I booked my flight on China Eastern through Bluewater Flight Consolidator. There was an error during online check-in, but at the ticketing counter, everything went smoothly. I got the requested window seat and a vegetarian meal.

After a smooth layover in Shanghai, I flew to Denpasar, Bali, arriving at 1 AM. From there, I walked to the domestic terminal, where I spent the night waiting for my morning flight to Maumere. Despite initial concerns about overweight baggage, I paid just 20 USD. Upon arrival, the Waow crew greeted us warmly and arranged transportation to the ship.

Immediately, I recognized the Waowit was the only ship that made me say, Wow! It was handcrafted from ironwood by a local village known for their shipbuilding. The ship took over four years to build without formal plans, making it even more impressive.

Upon boarding, we were welcomed with cool towels and refreshments. The cruise directors guided us to our rooms and gave us a briefing on the deck. I was fortunate to be upgraded to a Deluxe cabin, which had a semi-private lounge that became my favorite spot for sunrise tea with my friend Petra.

Day 1: September 16, 2017

Dive 1: East Flores

Site Name: Serbete East

Visibility: 15 Meters

Current: Mild

We anchored at Point Serbete, where we encountered black and white-tip reef sharks, dogtooth tunas, great barracudas, and various other fish species. The dive site was a fantastic start to our adventure.

The diving experience was exceptional, featuring a mix of wide-angle and macro photography opportunities. Alor offers a diverse range of dive sites, from coral reefs to muck diving, making it a must-visit destination for enthusiasts.

For photography, I used my Kraken Sports Smart Phone Housinga great alternative to bulky professional gear. It allowed me to capture some amazing underwater moments without the hassle of carrying heavy equipment.

NUDIBRANCH & SLUGS: Chamberlain nembrotha

MOLLUSK: Day octopus

REPTILE: Turtle

Dive 6: South West Lembata

Site Name: Suanggi Batu Mandi

Visibility: 10M

Current: Mild

FISH: Black and white tip reef sharks, Baby white tip reef sharks, Black snappers, Fusiliers, Scorpion fish, Banner fish, Surgeon fish, Damsel fish, Blennies, Spotted soup fish.

CRUSTACEAN: Banded shrimps, Lobsters

NUDIBRANCH & SLUGS: T-bar nudibranch

Dive 7: West Lembata

Site Name: Ice Factory (ND)

Visibility: 15M

Current: Mild

FISH: Ornate ghost pipe fish, Robust ghost pipe fish, Scorpion fish, Frogfish, Lion fish, Long horn cow fish, File fish, Dragonet, Napoleon snake eel, Sole fish.

CRUSTACEAN: Hermit crabs, Orangutan crab, Spider crab

MOLLUSK: Long arm octopus, Cuttlefish

REPTILE: Banded sea snake

Day 3: September 18, 2017

Dive 8: North Lembata

Site Name: Simurerang The Edge

Visibility: 20M

Current: Mild

FISH: Mobula ray, Black and white tip reef sharks, Napoleon wrasses, Moray eel, Lion fish, Black snappers, Ribbon sweetlips, Blue fin fusiliers.

Dive 9: North Lembata

Site Name: Bacatan Ridge

Visibility: 20M

Current: Mild

FISH: White tip reef sharks, Damsel fish, Fusiliers, Surgeon fish, Banner fish, Redtooth trigger fish, Angel fish, Ribbon sweetlips.

CRUSTACEAN: Zanzibar whip coral shrimp

MOLLUSK: Cuttlefish

Day 4: September 19, 2017

Dive 12: Pura Island

Site Name: Board Room

Visibility: 20M

Current: Mild

FISH: Eagle ray, White tip reef sharks, Damsel fish, Fusiliers, Surgeon fish, Banner fish, Red tooth trigger fish, Angel fish, Ribbon sweetlips, Anthias, Lion fish, Blue ribbon eel, Moray eel, Long fin batfish.

CRUSTACEAN: Porcelain crab

REPTILE: Banded sea snake

Dive 13: East Pura

Site Name: Great Wall of Pantar

Visibility: 20M

Current: Strong

FISH: Napoleon wrasses, Bumphead parrot fish, Damsel fish, Fusiliers, Surgeon fish, Banner fish, Red tooth trigger fish, Angel fish, Ribbon sweetlips, Anthias, Lion fish, Blue ribbon eel, Moray eel, Long fin batfish, Black snappers.

REPTILE: Banded sea snake

Between dives, Lorine and I went for an ocean clean-up paddle board ride. Muck dives are great, but they often come with lots of garbage. We paddled for about 15 minutes and managed to collect a full bag of trash.

Visibility: 15M

Current: Mild

FISH: Rhinopias, Sweetlip, Lion fish, Scorpion fish.

CRUSTACEAN: Hermit crabs, Sponge crab, Decorated crab, Spider crab, Banded shrimp.

MOLLUSK: Cuttlefish

NUDIBRANCH & SLUGS: Girdled glossodoris, Forskals pneurobranch, Nembrotha, Flatworm.

Day 5: September 20, 2017

Dive 16: Pura

Site Name: Clown Valley

Visibility: 20M

Current: Slight

FISH: Yellow tail barracudas, Sweetlips, Snappers, Damsel fish, Anthias, Bonito, Clown fish, Surgeon fish

NUDIBRANCH & SLUGS: Sea apple

Dive 17: Pura

Site Name: Point & Shoot

Visibility: 25M

Current: Mild

FISH: Bluefin trevally, Humpback snappers, Five line snappers, Red fin bream, Long face emperor, Damsel fish, Blue stripe fusiliers, Gold band fusiliers, Surgeon fish, Banner fish, Red tooth trigger fish, Angelfish, Ribbon sweetlips, Anthias, Lion fish, Black snappers, Red tooth trigger fish.

Dive 18: Reta

Site Name: Babylon

Visibility: 15M

Current: Mild

FISH: Map puffer fish, Long face emperor, Damsel fish, Fusiliers, Surgeon fish, Banner fish, Red tooth trigger fish, Angel fish, Ribbon sweetlips, Anthias, Lion fish, Black snappers, Red tooth trigger fish, Blennies.

CRUSTACEAN: Candy crab

Dive 19: Alor

Site Name: Mucky Mosque (ND)

Visibility: 15M

Current: Mild

FISH: Rhinopias, Sweetlip, Lion fish, Scorpion fish.

CRUSTACEAN: Zebra crab, Banded shrimp, Spider crab, Sponge crab, Porcelain crab.

NUDIBRANCH & SLUGS: Spanish dancer, Flat worm discodoris.

Day 6: September 21, 2017 Pantar Puri And Alor

Headhunters Village Visit: At dinner the night before, the guests and I were offered the option to visit the last remaining head hunters' village. Dont worry, they no longer practice headhunting, but they remain a tribe.

We began our day by taxiing on the chase boat to the dock, where locals sold dried fish. Our bus arrived late, and we waited under a cashew tree for shade. I didnt know cashews grew on trees like that. Some kids came to take photosof themselves, not us. They love to see their pictures afterward.

The tour bus was like an old school bus. Our first stop gave us a taste of Alors culture, with moments of truth but a bit stagedsimilar to a Native American exhibit at Knott's Berry Farm. A woman was weaving scarves, a young girl made natural dyes, and another woman pounded corn over a fire pit. We tried the cornit tasted like popcorn but flat.

A man played a one-string guitar. The experience felt staged, but it was enjoyable.

We explored a local market, guided by Gagap, my self-appointed bodyguard. He showed me local treats, including crispy wafers drizzled in honey.

As we drove toward the headhunters' village, I noticed the ocean was first on my right, then on my left, though we hadnt turned. It was confusing.

At the village, warriors in traditional clothing welcomed us with a performance. We saw authentic structures and gathered around a tree for a ceremonial dance.

Reto, our cruise director, explained the ceremony. It was an offering ceremony to propose marriage, where Moko drumsvaluable status symbolsare offered as a dowry. The village values girls over boys, as boys often require families to give away Moko drums for dowries.

As the ceremony continued, we were invited to participate. I joined the circle and was taught the step dance. When it was over, we were invited to explore the village a bit. I noticed, not only in this village but all over the country, men and women with bright red mouths. Being the curious person I am, I finally asked an older woman, who took a small kit out of her woven bag. It is called Betel nut. It gives people a buzz equivalent to six cups of coffee and serves as a symbol of love, marriage, and a cure for indigestion and impotence. But it stains the heck out of your teeth! Naturally, I tried some.

Dive 20: South West Alor

Site Name: Lighthouse

Visibility: 15M

Current: Mild

Fish: Black Snappers, Sweetlips, Blennies, Anthias, Scorpion Fish, Moray Eel

Crustacean: Banded Shrimp

Nudibranch & Slugs: Pacific Thecacera, Gloomy Tambja

Day 7: September 22, 2017

On the 19th, I continued my SCUBA education and began my Nitrox certification. With the help of our cruise director, Lorine, I completed my training and am now diving with Nitrox.

Dive 21: South East Pantar

Site Name: Bean Abang

Visibility: 15M

Current: Mild

Fish: Napoleon Snake Eel, Crocodile Snake Eel, Large Spotted Snake Eel, Black Saddle Snake Eel, Flounders, Blue Spotted Stingray

Mollusk: Long Arm Octopus, Wunderpus Octopus

Crustacean: Banded Shrimp

Dive 22: South East Pantar

Site Name: Bean Abang

Visibility: 15M

Current: Mild

Fish: File Fish (Juvenile), Baby Bamboo Shark, Long Fin Lion Fish, Dragon Sea Mouth, Napoleon Snake Eel, Crocodile Snake Eel, Large Spotted Snake Eel, Black Saddle Snake Eel, Flounders, Blue Spotted Stingray

Mollusk: Long Arm Octopus

Crustacean: Banded Shrimp, Soft Coral Shrimp

Dive 23: South East Pantar

Site Name: Beang Abang / Hot Property

Visibility: 15M

Current: Mild

Fish: Frog Fish, Rock Mover Wrasses, Great Barracudas, Sailfin Snappers, Flounders, Blue Spotted Stingray

Mollusk: Long Arm Octopus, Wunderpus Octopus

Crustacean: Banded Shrimp, Hermit Crab, Zanzibar Whip Coral Shrimp, Porcelain Crab

Dive 24: South East Pantar

Site Name: Beang Abang (ND)

Visibility: 15M

Current: Mild

Fish: Box Fish (Juvenile), Baby Bamboo Shark, Wash Fish, Crocodile Snake Eel, Napoleon Snake Eel, Scorpion Fish, Flounders, Blue Spotted Stingray

Mollusk: Long Arm Octopus, Squid

Crustacean: Hairy Shrimp, Banded Shrimp, Hermit Crab, Zanzibar Whip Coral Shrimp, Porcelain Crab

Nudibranch & Slugs: Blue Dragon, Forskal Pneuribranch, Flatworms Discodoris, Phylodesmium

Village Visit: Beang Abang, Alor

This village was different from the others. Adults were nowhere to be found, but children were abundant. They greeted us with songs, one of which they wrote themselves. We walked through the town together, and the children brought us to the town's water well. The most stunning surprise was the volcanic activity beneath the surface. We could see sulfuric erosion in parts of the village. Where the land met the sea, we could feel the heat from the flowing lava below, with steam rising as cold waves crashed against the sand. It was bizarre, to say the least.

• Very spacious.
• The ladders are easily accessible, even for older guests. The porters make it easy for anyone needing assistance to get in and out of the water.
• After a dive, personal reusable water bottles were filled with fresh water.
• The boat drivers and gear porters were highly attentive. For example, one porter, Gagap, always had my preferred de-fog solution ready without needing reminders, even if he wasnt assigned to me that day.

Gear rinse tanks on board:

• Separate tanks for wetsuits and accessories.
• Separate tanks for camera housings, with air dryers and towels available.

Amenities:

• Steel water bottles for ship and land use.
• Deck showers with two on each side, a hose, and a private deck shower.
• One wet-use bathroom on deck.
• Grape-scented hand soap in bathrooms.
• Nespresso machine in the master cabin.

Meals:

• Early breakfast (before the first dive):
  • Fresh croissants.
  • Homemade jams (kiwi, strawberry, mango).
  • Fresh fruits (watermelon, passionfruit, markisa, snake fruit).
• Breakfast (after the first dive):
  • Made-to-order eggs.
  • Buffet with various treats, meats, and snacks.
• Lunch and Dinner:
  • Served on the main deck with a new menu daily.
  • Complimentary wine with dinner.
  • Delicious desserts.
  • Bamboo straws provided.
  • Indoor dining area and bar.

Non-Diver Activities:

• Paddleboards
• Kayaks
• Large movie and music selections in cabins
• Card and board games in common areas
• Laundry service on board ($1 per item)

Special Thanks: Lory, Petra, Nick, Reefy, and Gagap.

How To Book A Trip To Alor

Bluewater Travel can book your trip to Alor at the same or lower cost than booking directly. We know the diving, liveaboards, and best times to visit better than anyone!

By Tristyn Heldt