Svalbard, Norway Trip Recap 2024

Read all about Tim Yeo’s unforgettable South Australia expedition with Bluewater aboard the Rodney Fox, featuring great white sharks, sea lions, leafy sea dragons, and the world’s largest cuttlefish aggregation.

Words and Pictures by Tim Yeo

Underwater Camera Equipment Used: Sony a6700; Ikelite Housing; Sony 16-50mm lens; dual Kraken KS-160 strobes

Topside Camera Equipment Used: Sony a6700 and Sony 100-400mm lens

Day 1: August 8 – Arrival in Longyearbyen

After a grueling 35-hour journey involving five flights, including a reroute due to weather, I finally arrived in Longyearbyen. Once checked in and rejuvenated by a quick nap, I made my way to the Visitor Center to rent a bicycle, an ideal way to explore the town and its surroundings. On the way, I spotted a flock of Barnacle Geese and a Svalbard reindeer, adding to the excitement of my arrival.

This evening, we arranged a gourmet dining experience for the group at Huset, one of the world's northernmost restaurants, complemented by wine pairings from their extensive cellar.

  Watch footage from our Norway Polar Expedition 2024

Day 2: August 9 – Embarkation Day

After checking out of our hotel, we spent some time exploring the town and had lunch before our 4 PM boarding. We also stocked up on drinks and snacks from the large supermarket to enjoy during our week on the boat. At 4 PM, we took a taxi to the Plancius, where our dive team leader, Tanja, welcomed us. After dropping off our bags and boarding the ship, we were escorted to our rooms. 

The day was filled with the usual mandatory briefings that are part of any polar expedition. We participated in a mustering drill, got acquainted with our lifeboat assignments, and attended a captain’s champagne toast before dinner at 7:30 PM. After dinner, the eight divers among the 110 guests gathered for a dive briefing and then set up our gear, collecting rental boots for landings or zodiac cruises when not in our drysuits. While setting up, we had our first wildlife sighting—a pair of curious blue whales, the largest animals on Earth. By the time we showered and got to bed, it was midnight.

Day 3: August 10 – Checkout Dive

Our checkout dive took place in a bay near a glacier, where visibility was limited to around 5 feet. Despite the challenging conditions, we successfully checked our gear and adjusted our weighting. Following the dive, we set off on a zodiac cruise to observe puffins and get a closer view of the glacier. In the afternoon, we visited Ny-Ålesund, a former coal mining town that has since become a research settlement. There, we explored a small museum, purchased souvenirs, and sent postcards from the northernmost settlement in the world—a place with significant historical importance as the starting point for Roald Amundsen’s North Pole balloon expedition.

Day 4: August 11 – Hike and Wildlife Encounters

This morning, we had the option of three hikes, each varying in difficulty. I chose the middle hike, which took us about halfway up a ridge and lasted around 2.5 hours. Along the way, we spotted a ptarmigan with her chicks, a delightful sight. Can you spot mama ptarmigan and her seven chicks in the last photo? 

After the hike, we prepared to head to our next dive site, but our plans were delayed when we spotted not one, but two polar bears on the same rocky cliff. One bear was resting, occasionally glancing at us, while the other roamed a grassy patch, possibly searching for food. After spending an hour observing these incredible creatures, we made our way to the impressive bird cliffs of Alkefjellet, home to 60,000 mating pairs of guillemots. Unfortunately, strong winds forced us to return to a safer location where diving wasn't possible, so the guides established a perimeter, allowing us to explore the tundra within the designated boundaries.

Day 5: August 12 – Ice Pack and Polar Bears

We awoke to the sight of deep Arctic sea ice after a 10-hour journey. Although wake-up was scheduled for 7:45 AM, our beloved expedition leader, Ali, got on the PA system at 7:15 AM with exciting news of a bear sighting. We quickly dressed, shaking off our grogginess, and were instantly alert as we watched a polar bear covered in blood drag a seal carcass across the ice and started chomping down on his fresh kill. We spent over an hour observing this incredible scene before heading to breakfast. 

Afterward, the same polar bear was still lingering on the sea ice, now leisurely strolling around before settling down for a nap. At 10:45 AM, the PA summoned us again, but this time it was for chai tea on the outside deck, courtesy of our Indian head chef, Khabir. Before long, we were called out once more, this time to witness a bowhead whale—one of the longest-living animals on Earth—napping on the surface next to the sea ice.

Day 6: August 13 – Wedding Day

As with any polar expedition, flexibility is key, and today was no exception. Originally, we planned to head to Kvitøya, but due to expected high winds, the decision was made to go to Phippsøya, part of the Seven Islands group near the North Pole. This change thrilled our dive leader, Tanja, who had recently experienced excellent conditions there. On our way to the dive site, we spotted a group of six walruses more than 100 meters away from our dive site, allowing us to stick to our dive plan. 

Visibility was around 30 feet, and we explored a thick kelp bed, spotting Arctic sculpins, Arctic sheep crabs, and smaller fish like polar cod. As we completed our dive, we were recalled to the boat, likely due to a nearby walrus or polar bear. Once back on board, we learned that the walruses were now less than 100 meters away. We slowly motored over to observe two groups of juvenile walruses, followed by another group of four on a nearby beach.

In a special moment, two of our buddies who got engaged underwater during our 2023 Antarctica trip were married in an underwater ceremony during our second dive deep into the Arctic Circle, beyond 80 degrees latitude. We were about 1,000 kilometers or 645 miles from the North Pole. After the ceremony, we continued our dive, exploring beautiful reefs covered in pink and red anemones, sculpins, sheep crabs, starfish, and sun stars. It was truly a dive to remember!

Day 7: August 14 – Return to Alkefjellet

Since bad weather had previously prevented us from visiting Alkefjellet, we made another attempt today. To avoid conflicting with another expedition vessel, we started our day early at 6:30 AM. After a quick breakfast, we geared up for our dive. Visibility was decent at 25 feet, though the water was a chilly 38°F. During the dive, we spotted a gorgeous ray, a large cod, a sculpin, and a beautiful nudibranch. As we ascended, we were met with the stunning sight of towering cliffs rising 300 feet into the sky, with thousands of guillemots flying overhead—an unforgettable end to the dive.

After lunch, we visited a beach frequented by walruses. Around 50 walruses were lounging on the beach, though we had to keep a 100-foot distance. A few curious walruses did swim up to the beach to check us out, coming within just a few feet—an incredible close encounter.

Day 8: August 15 – Foxes and Bears

The day began with a hike up a small canyon to observe a large colony of kittiwakes and their chicks perched on the cliffs. As we were watching the birds, an Arctic fox casually pranced down the canyon, barely acknowledging our presence. It passed by us several times, pacing up and down the canyon as if in search of an easy meal.

In the afternoon, we headed to our dive site, but our plans changed when we spotted a polar bear just 100 yards from the beach. Soon after, another bear appeared, and we realized it was a mother with her cub. We spent the next 90 minutes captivated, watching them snack on a carcass, roll around in the grass, and explore the tundra. It turned out to be the best canceled dive ever!

Thank you Kendra for the amazing photos since mine was stuck in my Ikelite housing.

Day 9: August 16 – Fun on an Iceberg

We woke to stunning views of tall mountains, glaciers, and sea ice. Although we knew visibility would be poor due to the nearby glaciers, we decided to dive anyway. This was an exploratory dive, as no one had dived here before. Visibility was indeed challenging, with less than 5 feet down to 30 feet, where it slightly improved to about 15 feet. The thick layer of glacier water also blocked out sunlight, making it feel like a night dive in the land of the midnight sun. After the dive, we made a landing and walked along the beach, exploring cliffs, kittiwake colonies, fox holes, and even an old 17-18th century whaling-era coffin (pictured below). 

In the afternoon, we donned our drysuits for a zodiac cruise to explore a glacier. We found a large iceberg, climbed onto it, and enjoyed sliding off into the freezing water before being picked up by the zodiac. It was a fun and unique experience, capped off with a cruise around sea ice and other icebergs. We even spotted a small pod of beluga whales in the distance.

Day 10: August 17 – Final Day of Activities

Today marked the final day of our cruise, with no diving planned due to the proximity of massive glaciers. The morning activity was a hike where we spotted some reindeer. In the afternoon, we strolled along a beach with a stunning views of a glacier—a fitting end to an incredible Arctic adventure.

Summary and Conclusion

Our Arctic adventure kicked off in Longyearbyen, the world’s northernmost town, where we geared up for an epic journey into the wild. Once aboard the Plancius, the real fun began—each day was packed with excitement and surprises. We dived into icy waters, discovering vibrant marine life and exploring surreal underwater landscapes. On land, we hiked through breathtaking terrain, getting up close with incredible wildlife like Arctic foxes and bustling bird colonies. The zodiac cruises were a highlight, allowing us to navigate through sea ice, icebergs, and glaciers, and get incredibly close to walruses and polar bears.

The ever-changing polar conditions kept us on our toes, adding to the thrill of the adventure! We even conducted a polar underwater wedding during one of our dives. From start to finish, the trip was a rollercoaster of adventure, laughter, and unforgettable moments—a truly wild ride in the Arctic!